The Quiet Side of Hvar
Beyond the harbour and the fortress, the island's inland villages move at a different pace entirely.
Most guests see Hvar from the water first, and it is easy to stop there. The harbour is genuinely beautiful, and the fortress above town earns the climb. But the island changes once you move inland, past the last of the waterfront konobas and up into the lavender fields that give the island its late-summer colour.
The villages here, Velo Grablje and Malo Grablje among them, were largely abandoned through the twentieth century and are only now being slowly restored. What is left is quiet in a way the harbour rarely is: stone houses, working terraces and a handful of small producers who will pour you a glass of travarica if you ask.
We usually build in a half day for this on the Adriatic Classic route, timed for the late afternoon when the light through the lavender is at its best and the heat has started to ease.
Ready to see it for yourself?